Alocasias (African Mask Plants)
These plants are part of the Aroid plant family and come from Malaysia, Borneo and Sarawak. They are grown for their foliage which can be highly variable from one variety to the next. They also can range in size from 5” tall varieties to 20’ tall varieties with leaves longer than 10’.
Care for Alocasias
These plants are fairly forgiving to improper care once they reach an adequate size. However, until your small plants grow up a bit, get a thicker stalk and a well developed root network they are susceptible to mistreatment. Here are some growing tips.
Despite the year round pleasant weather in California these plants should be grown in the house. Some varieties can survive outdoors yearround, however most will not. If the plant is exposed to temperatures below 60oF for extended periods (ie winter at night) it may go dormant and stop putting up new leaves. Evidence of dormancy is yellowing and loss of leaves WITHOUT any new leaf growth.
You can expect young plants to maintain only up to 3 to 4 leaves at a time since the expanding stalk causes older smaller leaf petioles (stalk of leaf) to tear off and die. This is normal.
If your plant goes into dormancy, and even if it loses all of its leaves, do not throw away your plant!!! Stop watering and let the pot dry out (over-watering will cause root rot/stem rot and death)- then moisten soil and cover the top of the soil with plastic wrap. Put the pot in a non-drafty place and just wait until new growth appears. Water only when soil below plastic appears dry. The plant will start growing again when temperatures get warmer (sometimes even up to 6 months later- I’ve had some species of alocasias rise from the dead after 1-1.5years!)
Watering:
Water until soil is moist. Do not water again until top of soil is dry to touch.
Water frequently (once a week) when plant is actively growing (also evidenced by the soil drying out faster since these plants suck up the water more heavily during these periods)- reduce frequency during dormancy or winter in general (once every 2 weeks)
Pots:
These plants like to grow in small pots. Smaller pots dry out better and prevent the plant from sitting in soaked soil which encourages fungus. I grow my largest alocasias (5ft tall) in 10-14 inch pots and these pots contain multiple plants! Your small single plants will be happy in 4-6 inch pots for a long time. In fact they like to be somewhat root bound.
Soil:
Use well draining soil. Some people have particular soil mixes, but I have found general houseplant potting soil to be sufficient.
Light:
Indirect bright overhead light is best, but will be OK in up to 80% shade. No prolonged direct sunlight for as leaves will burn, however continuous filtered sunlight is good. Plants grown in shade will require less watering since they grow slower.
Special notes: The Frydek (Green Velvet) variety does not like to have its leaves moved out of the light so only rotate if all the leaves can still get sufficient light. This plant will ultimately drop any leaves which can’t get enough light. I find it best to let the plant just settle into a sopt even if the plant orients directionally. Other varieties of alocasia are not as sensitive as Frydek and will maintain leaves much better.
Pests:
Spider mites, scale, and mealy bugs mean bad news for your alocasias. Here in California they are very hard to avoid but there are steps you can do to limit these pests. Whenever your plant starts to get yellow leaves, check for spider mites. They (red mites) will be under the leaf typically and if you mist the plant you will notice fine webbing. Scale will be seen as brown chitinous ovals about the size of a sesame seed affixed to the plant. Mealy bugs are white fluffy bugs generally found in the nooks and crannies of the leaves and petioles. Use Ultrafine Insecticidal oil to eradicate bugs. This is more effective than insecticidal soap since it kills the eggs too. If all else fails you can cut off all the leaves except the youngest (most center leaf) as you don’t want to remove the growing point.
Propagation:
These plants grow best in multiples. When your single plant gets bigger and stalkier you can expand your collection by cutting off the top 2inches of stalk (with the leaves) and planting that section either back into the pot or into a new small pot. The top will root fairly quickly (3weeks), but may loose a couple of leaves before resuming its growth. The remaining stalk will eventually sprout new growing tips (2-3), and there will be growth of new plants from the soil (from corms which are tuber like nodules). This established root base will grow very well and will support the growth of a hardy bunch of plants.
Good Luck!
Kurt Edelmann
Website: www.pursel.org/KHEOE